PH 39 (COSMETICS)
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PH 39 (COSMETICS) - Detalles
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1 outer layer of the skin 2 subcutaneous layer which serves as a cushion for the dermis and epidermis; serves as an accessory | 1 Epidermis 2 hypodermis |
1. __ increase in number and grow forward to form a peg. 2. __ which will become the dermal papilla 3. __ become the hair shaft. 4. __ migrates downwards to form the follicle with swellings. 5. __ has one of the HIGHEST RATES OF CELL DIVISION in the human body | 1 Superficial dermis 2 Specialized fibroblasts 3 Keratin cells 4 Hair 'peg' 5 Hair follicle |
1 third stage of hair development 2 main role in the regulation of hair growth and formation. 3 visible part of the hair that sticks out of the skin 4 first stage of hair dev 5 second stage of hair dev | 1 Hair Peg 2 Dermal Papilla 3 Hair Shaft 4 Pre-germ 5 Hair germ |
STRUCTURE: 1 flat cells which overlap in a roof-tile formation with an intracellular content to bind them together 2 Two regions of this: 3 cells are embedded in SULFUR-RICH MATRIX with chemical crosslinkages | . 1 Cortex 2 • Paracortex - predominant • Orthocortex - minority component 3 Paracortex |
STRUCTURE: 1 outermost structure which surrounds the cortex 2 Each cell has an outer membrane and contained within the membrane are THREE DISTINCT LAYERS | . 1 Cuticle 2) 1 A-layer 2 Exocuticle 3 Endocuticle |
1 causes BROWN to BLACK COLORATION in the hair 2 causes AUBURN TONE to the hair 3 derived in biosynthesis from the AMINO ACID TYROSINE | 1 Eumelanin 2 Pheomelanin 3 Melanin |
1 Causes of Curliness | 1 Non-uniform distribution of the DISULFIDE BRIDGES on one side of the hair fiber |
GROWTH stages of Hair | Anagen Telogen Catagen ATC |
1Active growth stage of hair. Lasts 3-6 years 2 Resting stage. Lasts between 6-8 weeks. 3 Transition stage where hair stops growing. Lasts 2-3 weeks | 1 Anagen 2 Telogen 3 Catagen |
Hair fibres are composed of: | 85% complex protein keratin 7% water. 3% lipids 2% pigment aluminium (Al), chromium (Cr), calcium (Ca), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), magnesium (Mg) and zinc (Zn) ( 22 mg per 10Og ) |
CHEMICAL HAIR REACTIVITY LIST: | 1 Alkali Hydrolysis 2 Acid hydrolysis 3 Reactions of sulfur amino acids 4 Alkylation of thiol (SH) groups |
1 This test applies only where peptide linkages, are present 2 used to detect and quantify proteins in their hydrolysates 3 most interesting sulfur amino acid, CYSTINE, may be reduced to general thiol groups (—SH) by a number of reducing agents: 4 most important reducing agent; forms the basis of most PERMANENT WAVING PROCESSES & hair straightening products | 1 Alkali Hydrolysis 2 Ruhemann’s Purple 3) 1 mercaptans such as Thioglycollic acid, Alkali bisulfite 2 Phosphorus derivatives like Tertrakis (methylol), Phosphonium chloride (TMPC) 4 Ammonium thioglycolate |
1 obvious application in the determination of the DEGREE OF REDUCTION of hair that has been treated with reducing agents. 2 DO NOT participate in either the CONTINUOUS PROTEIN CHAIN, or CROSS-LINKING BONDS formed between adjacent protein chains | 1 reaction of thiols with iodoacetic acid 2 Free' amino groups |
1 Unstretched keratin chains are __ 2 Fully stretched keratin exists in a __ form | 1 folded (corrugated) 2 planar, sheet-like |
Example is CTAC which leads to smooth, tangle-free combing and a reduction in 'flyaway' | Cationic Emulsion |
1 Used to create TEMPORARY SET; physical mechanism 2 Used to achieve PERMANENT SET; chemical mechanism | 1 Water waving techniques 2 Thioglycolate-based hair waving and straightening products - Ammonium thioglycolate |
1 Chemical used to straighten hair; less damaging to the scalp; less smelly; Make follicles more PERMEABLE and BREAKS DISULFIDE BOND 2) Mechanically STABLE CROSS-LINKAGES 3 A bond created when DISULFIDE BONDS are broken by HYDROXIDE CHEMICAL RELAXERS | 1 Ammonium thioglycolate 2 Lanthionine & Lysinoalanine 3 Lanthionine |
Classification of HAIR CARE PRODUCTS | 1 with Physical Mechanisms (shampoos, conditioners, hair sprays) 2 causes Chemical Changes (permanent waving, hair straightening, hair colorants permanent) |
CATIONIC WETTING AGENT to setting lotion - KEY INGREDIENT - EMULSIFIER | Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride (CTAC) formula 1 |
Helps LOWER pH LEVELS helps lower the pH in many products, such as shampoo, that have much higher, more alkaline pH levels. This helps keep hair at healthy pH levels | Citric acid formula 1 |
Shown to give an INCREASE IN VOLUME to the hair | Panthenol formula 1 |
1 improves wet combability, REDUCES FLYWAY and confers SOFTNESS to the hair 2 HUMECTANTS, providing body to the damaged hair | 1 Dimethicone copolyol 2 Hydrolysed proteins of vegetable origin formula 1 |
Acts as HUMECTANT. It attracts water to the hair, thus conferring MOISTURIZING benefit for dry, permed or damaged hair for Intensive Hair Conditioners | Glycerin formula 2 |
FOAMING & CLEANSING AGENT. It can be also used as BACTERICIDAL AGENT at concentrations up to 5% for Intensive Hair Conditioners | Benzalkonium Chloride formula 2 |
1 gives greater flexibility to hair in formula IV 2 non-ionic; primarily used in detergents personal care e.g. for shampoo, conditioners as well as for textile and leather processing. | 1 Vinyl acetate copolymers 2 Ethoxylated fatty alcohol |
1 THICKENING AGENTS; CONTROL the VISCOSITY; help DISTRIBUTE & SUSPEND insoluble solids into liquid; PREVENT the oil and liquid parts from SEPARATING 2 neutralizes the carbomer; producing the desired viscosity. 3 for a 'wet look' 4 gloss and condition | 1 Carbomers 2 Sodium hydroxide 3 propylene glycol 4 silicone formula 6 |
- a surfactant of the silicone glycol type; confers superior combing properties together with a softer, smoother texture to the hair Hairspray formulation | Dimethicone copolyol |
A more polar propellant than the hydrocarbons, and can be used with aqueous-based formula. Hairspray formulation | DME (dimethyl ether) |
HAIRDRESSING Major categories: | 1 Brilliantines 2 Emulsions 3 Aerosol hair dressings |
Emulsion constituents: 1 acts as a grooming aid and reduces greasiness of the product. 2 higher fatty acids of this is critical to the formula 3 also an important constituent | 1 water 2 beeswax 3 paraffin wax or microcrystalline wax. |
A chemical that breaks the disulfide bonds acts as a REDUCING AGENT in permanent waving formulations for hair treatment | Ammonium thioglycolate |
Is the balance of the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule. | HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) |
Combines the excellent cleaning power of mild surfactants with the moisturizing and detangling properties of a conditioner. Example: keratin | Premium conditioning shampoo |
EX: Dove daily moisture shampoo - beauty shampoo that cleanses and nourishes without being overly harsh. | Basic beauty shampoo |
Combines the excellent cleaning power of mild surfactants with the moisturizing and detangling properties of a conditioner. Example: keratin | Premium conditioning shampoo |
MEN’S FRAGRANCES | 1 Eau de colognes 2 Eau de toilettes |
1 __ is a french word for water and is often used to describe lighter concentrations of perfume. | 1 Eau An example of eau is when used with "de toilette" to describe cologne. |
Tend to have higher fragrance compound concentrations, possibly up to 10% has a fragrance concentration of between 5% to 15% last TWO TO THREE HOURS considered by some as DAYWEAR | Eau de toilette (EDT) |
Masculine fragrances can largely be classified into the THREE MAJOR CATEGORIES | 1 Fougere 2 Oriental 3 Chypre |
1 are ingredients that make up a fragrance. 2 They are categorized as __ 3 This carefully selected blend of ingredients forms the __, the BASIC CHARACTER of a FRAGRANCE. | 1 Perfume notes 2) Perfume notes category: 1 Top notes (citrus, lavender), 2 Heart notes (cinnamon, jasmine) 3 Base notes (vanilla, musk). 3) PERFUME ACCORD |
Shaving Prep key tasks | 1 Hydrates 2 Lubricates 3 Track |
PRE-SHAVING preparations for USE WITH ELECTRIC RAZORS; does not give quite such a satisfactory shave | Dry Shaving Preparations |
1 After-shave preparations The most popular types of product have been__ 2 Other ingredients used are various combinations from the following examples of raw materials: | 1 Clear lotions containing about 40-50% of ethanol 2 Propylene glycol Menthol Witch hazel Quaternary ammonium compounds Di-isopropyl adipate |
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN HAIR LOTIONS AND TONICS 1 Rubefacients 2 Sulfur and some of its derivatives 3 Nutrients which are claimed to help cell synthesis. | 1 → Cantharides, Capsicum extract, Pilocarpine, Quinine, Ammonia, Resorcinol, Salicylic acid, Turpentine oil and Rosemary oil 2 → Colloidal sulfur 3 → Vitamins A and E, Vitamin B group, Vitamin F; Pantothenic acid and panthenol |
FORMULA X (10) for HAIR TONIC contains 1 fast drying properties on hair. 2 effective as a moisturizer; humectant | → Perfume; Fragrance → Water 1 → 95% ethanol: 2→ Glycerin: |
FORMULA XI and XII (11&12) for Men’s HAIR TONIC contains: 1 rubefacients stimulate growth in hair follicles 2 rubefacient to decrease and stop hair loss | → Ethanol → Glycerin → Water 1 → Ammonia solution and Oil of Rosemary: 2 → Quinine Hydrochloride |
FORMULA XIII (13) 1 is a salt of vitamin B5 and works inside the scalp and increases hair growth. | 1 → Calcium pantothenate: |
FORMULA XIV (14) FOR ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTION contains: 1 scalp off dry skin and dandruff 2 degree of oiliness | → Alcohol → Perfume 1 → Salicylic Acid and Resorcinol 2 →Oleyl alcohol |
Active materials for medicated shampoos which has primary purpose of inhibiting the development of microorganisms. 1 are also suggested for treatment to combine the properties of sulfur and those of quaternary ammonium compounds | ● Sulfur preparations have a fungicidal action when applied externally ● Methyl/7-hydroxybenzoate (0.15%) and perfume (0.2%) 1 Quaternary ammonium polythionates |
FORMULA XV (15) FOR ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTION 1 combined with salicylic acid. keratolytic agents. treat dandruff and other scalp disorders | Same with formula 14 1 → Precipitated Sulfur: |
Formula XVI (16) for Hair conditioning Cream for Men contains: 1 lubricant on surface of skin and hair, which leads to a soft and smooth appearance 2 - help the hair from breakage 3 - increases lustre of the hair | . 1 → Isopropyl Palmitate - 2 → Laurie Acid 3 → Stearyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride: or Stearalkonium chloride → Preservative → Water |
Formula XVI (17) for Anti-Dandruff hair tonic with 1 a mixture of ethanol with denaturing agent 2 - use as solubilizer, emulsifier, surfactant and emollient 3 anti frizz | 1 → SD-Alcohol 39-C → Fragrance → Di-isopropyl Adipate - lubricant 2 → PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Propylene Glycol, Climbazole → Water → Panthenol - emollient 3 → Cetrimonium Chloride → Allantoin - a dry and itchy scalp → Glycerin → Propylene Glycol (and) Ethoxydiglycol (and) Birch (Betulae Alba) Leaf Extract |
Most anti-dandruff shampoo contains | Zinc pyrithione (ZPT) - active agent Piroctone olamine (0.75%) Climbazole (0.7-1.0%) |
Formula XVII (17) for Conditioning Shampoo for men | → Trimethylsilylamidimethicone - it increases softness/smoothness → Lauramide DEA (and) Linoleamide DEA and Sodium Laureth Sulfate - increase foaming → Water → PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate - thickener and stabilizer; dissolve oil on grease → Water → Citric acid - keeps the hair ph level healthy |